I suggest that another important and more subtle construction feature is the arch of the top of the instrument.  That is, if the instrument is somewhat arched, then tensile stresses might try to flatten the arch before splitting the wood.  Conversely, compressive stresses would simply make the arch somewhat greater.

It is also possible that the instrument sides might "give" slightly in response to stresses, but they are constrained by the orthotropic nature of the wood.  In general, longitudinal dimensional changes along the grain are about 1% when going from the green state to oven dry.  Across the grain radial changes are several times greater than along the grain changes.  Imagine a set of sides which have been joined by the heel and tail blocks (but without top or back).  Pressing inward or pulling outward at the waist causes the body length to increase or decrease.  But when the front and back are on and expanding to different degrees in different directions, the whole system is much stiffer;  altering the arch of the top and back or wood failure may be the only actual options.

When you are not playing your instrument, it should always be returned to the case. And the case should always be latched closed and be kept somewhere away from direct heat like heaters and stoves. The reason for latching is to keep the instrument in a stable temperature situation and many instruments have been damaged severely when the unlatched case was picked up and the instrument falls out.